This is an entirely arbitrary set of specifications, based solely on my own taste and experiences. In this page I describe a wide variety of factors that go into a 1:18 diecast car model, and give examples of good and bad instances.
Sure, it would be possible to require everything to be superdetailed, to the point that each model was actually an operable miniature car! But I'm trying to stay reasonable, and keep in mind that models come in different price points. So some features will be noted as "extra points," -- but sometimes they're found in mid- or low-end models!
First, the basics -- Every 1:18 diecast car model should have:
1: Wheels that roll.
2: Front wheels that steer (by the steering wheel). To this I'd like to add a few specifications, notable only because they're often not done right: a) The front wheels should have a reasonably wide angle of turning, not simply a few degrees each way (Ertl 1996 Pontiac Trans Am); b) they should NOT have a self-centering action (Bburago Ferrari 550); c) they should have some sort of limitation in the steering mechanism (steering lock on 1:1 cars) that stops the wheels before they scrub against anything, usually the inside fenders (Maisto Lamborghini Diablo, UT BMW Z3, both bad).
3: Doors that open, and stay open. The "stay open" requirement is listed only because some models with vertically lifting opening doors (Maisto Lamborghini Diablo, Anson Bugatti EB110) won't keep them open, or barely.
4: An engine compartment lid that opens, showing the engine. Like the doors, the engine lid or hood should be provided with a detent or prop rod, if required, to keep it open. (Bburago Dodge Viper RT/10, Road Legends BMW 850i, bad)
5: If the prototype has a trunk or hatchback, the lid to that should open, and be capable of staying open (Polistil Lamborghini Countach, numerous Ertls and UTs, bad).
6: If the car is a convertible, the top (if included) should have a provision for removal (Revell's Porsche 930 Turbo Cabriolet, good). If the car has a "targa" top or "T-roof," the roof panel(s) should be removable (Maisto 1996 Corvette, Anson Ferrari 328GTS, Mattel Corvette ZL-1, yes! Maisto Ferrari 348ts, Ertl 1996 Trans Am, no!).
TIRES AND WHEELS:
The quality of tires seems to be entirely independent of the price range of the model, given that some Maistos (their Ferrari F50, for instance) have magnificent tires. So there's no reason why any diecast model car should have bad tires.
Tires should be an accurate representation of the prototype, including tread pattern, profile, and sidewall molding (with maker's name, etc.). If a tire has a directional pattern (the Goodyear "Gatorbacks" on Maisto's 1996 Corvette), the pattern should run in the right direction. If the tires are asymmetrical, that should also be accurately represented. This can result in a requirement for four different tires, each one unique (Maisto's F50 does this!). (And maybe even a fifth, a space-saver spare! (UT BMW Z3))
Wheels should be a reasonably accurate rendition of the prototype, and separate (and separable) from the tire. If the real wheel isn't chromed, don't chrome the model (Bburago Ferrari Testarossa). If the real wheel has holes or openings, don't try to fool us with black paint (Polistil Countach).
Lug nuts, where visible, should be neat hexagons, not circles.
On high-end models, wire wheels should look real -- either real wires, or photoetched.
And if there's a brake rotor visible on the real car, give us at least a simple disc behind the wheel. On middle and high-end models, a rotating disc with a floating caliper (UT Ferrari 550) is impressive.
Finally, wheels should be removable from the axle without damaging either part. (Bburagos, good; Maistos, bad!)
BODYWORK:
The body panels should be smooth and free of visible defects or blemishes. Panels should meet closely, with smooth edges and gaps of consistent width. Vents and intakes should actually be open, not just indented or painted. Moving parts should not collide or overlap.
Paint should be consistent from panel to panel, and smooth, with no visible runs or "orange peel." Paint should not thin at edges or corners; nor should it ever fade out to bare metal. All exterior plastic pieces should be painted to provide consistent opacity and surface finish. All metal surfaces, including under the hood and trunklid, should be painted -- there should be no bare metal showing (most Maistos, many Bburagos, bad!).
Glass should be clear and relatively free of distortions (rear windows on Maisto Ferrari 348ts and Polistil Ferrari F40, bad!). Slight tint is nice; but not enough to obscure visibility into the interior. A tint stripe at the top is also impressive, but it's more impressive if it's actually tinted, and not opaque. Rear window defroster lines should be narrow and realistically spaced (Maisto 1996 Corvette Coupe, good!)
On mid- and high-end models, pop-up headlights should actually pop up (Kyosho Ferrari 512BB, good!). Exterior mirrors should have a smooth, mirror-like surface.
Any chrome plating should be smooth and consistent. Gray paint is NOT an acceptable substitute for chrome (Mattel Corvette ZL-1, bad!)
All visible headlights should have an actual lens, no decals (Road Legends BMW 850i, bad!). Taillights and side marker lights should be in appropriate colors, and should have lenses, not stripes of paint.
All tailpipes should look like pipes, no little chromed conical depressions.
Where a body panel is represented by a scribed line, the scribing should be deep enough to actually look like the panel, rather than just a shallow token effort (Anson Ferrari 328GTS, bad!)
Wipers should have realistic proportions and some surface detailing; simple black sticks (Bburago Viper RT/10, Ferrari 348tb) look bad. Extruded lumps from the windshield plate (Ertl '96 Trans Am) are worse than bad. Rear wipers, where appropriate, are worth extra points (Anson Porsche 993 Turbo), as are windshield washer nozzles, headlight washers, and headlight wipers.
ENGINES:
The engine should be a model of an engine in a model of an engine bay (Bburagos, Ertls, good! UTs, bad!), not simply some surface detailing or a detailed plate. As on a real engine, several different colors should be visible under the hood: usually metallic greys, black, maybe some body paint color. The engine casting itself should not be molded in the body color (Bburago Ferrari Testarossa, bad! Bburago Mercedes 300SL Gullwing, worse!). Sparkplug wires are impressive if they're the right color, scale thickness, and look real (Kyosho, good!); if the number is wrong (Anson Lamborghini Miura) or they're wispy and translucent (Maisto Ferrari F50, Maisto Dodge Viper GTS), they might as well be left off.
Decals giving specifications or showing number plates are worth extra points, as are engine lid liners or ductwork where appropriate. Also extra points for fuel filler tubes where appropriate (Kyosho Ferrari 512BB).
Exception for the rare cars (Porsche Boxster) where the engine is so deeply buried as to be mainly inaccessible -- but then I'd like to see some sign of it from below.
INTERIORS:
The interior should be one that a scale driver could fit into. The pedals should not be outsized (Anson Ferrari 550, bad!), nor should they be extrusions from the floorplate (Bburago Ferrari Testarossa). There should be adequate room between the seat and the steering wheel for the driver's legs (Guiloy Ferrari 250GTO, bad!). The gauges in the dash should be clearly visible, as should the controls on the dash and console.
There should be an interior rearview mirror (usually on the ceiling, but sometimes the dash), and it should be positioned at a reasonable angle. It should NOT be part of a clear "ceiling plate" comprising the greenhouse of the model. Nor should it be entirely chrome plated, unless the prototype was.
Extra points for multicolor interiors (Bburago and Maisto Ferrari 550s), folding seats (Road Legends Shelby GT-500KR), multicolor seats (Kyosho Ferrari 365GT4/BB!), moving shift levers, carpets, seatbelts (if they look good), headliners, or clear sunroofs.
TRUNKS, HATCHES:
The cargo compartment should open, and its interior should be fully finished or painted. Extra points for baggage (only if it looks good, more if it's removable!) or spare tires (same rules!). Also extra for carpeting, toolkits, or batteries (Maisto Porsche 550 Spyder, yes!).
UNDERCARRIAGE:
The underside should also be a fair model of the real car. On some cars (Ferrari F355, 550 Maranello), this would show very little detail due to an almost complete belly pan. On most, though, there is a fair bit showing: engine, transmission, driveshaft, differential, suspension, gas tank, and more. The more accurately this is modeled, the better.
Some makers (Maisto, Guiloy) offer working spring suspensions. Extra points if this works, and feels good. Still more if it's interesting or unusual (Maisto Lamborghini Diablo for twin-coil rear suspension; Maisto Ferrari F50 for cantilever rear suspension).
Still, I feel it's reasonable to make two allowances:
First, most makers have at least two mounting screws holding the new car to its baseplate. The screw holes are acceptable, if they're not too obtrusive. (But Bburago went a little too far with their Ferrari Testarossa by giving the chassis plate some deep projections -- almost to the "ground" -- to stabilize it on its base.)
Second, most makers will put their name and the model somewhere prominently on the bottom. This is also to be expected, and I'd be suspicious of any model that didn't. (Not that I've ever seen one...)
With those exceptions, though, I like to see a reasonably detailed underside.
And that's about it for loose standards of what I feel the diecast cars should have. 1:18 is a relatively large scale, and there's room for a lot of detail. On the other hand, some of these models are very inexpensive (as low as $10 new!), so we have to keep expectations reasonable.
The key to a low-cost model, as I see it, is to keep the quality high, but maybe to simplify the details, or cast parts in color instead of painting them. This seems to be what UT is doing with their Gate brand. Far better to leave off details, or leave a surface unpainted (allowing the collector to do his own detailing), than to save money by combining too many parts into one, or putting in lots of detail but poor fit.
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