lowwomen

The style of dress that is considered to be historically accurate for peasant women is probably fairly inaccurate. While we have very few pictures of English peasant women, and no surviving garments, there are a number of pictures of women in other countries, and what they wear doesn't resemble the usual Ren Faire wench costume.

The standard lower class woman costume of a peasant blouse, fitted, busty bodice, and several drapey skirts owes more to folk costumes that were designed in the 17th and 18th century than it does to the 16th. It is, for all practical purposes, a stylized theatrical costume. However, since most people are interested in the style, and it is the accepted norm at Renaissance Faires and other events, that is what I'll discuss here.

The basic undergarment of the peasant woman was the smock. This is also called a shift or, if you're French, a chemise. It is usually made of linen, knee to calf length, and always has long sleeves. The smock was also the night garment for peasants.

In period, it was a T shaped garment with straight sleeves and a low square neck. It was cut almost completely in rectangles.

One reason for this was that linen unravels easily. The rectangular cut allows it to be cut using the full width, and therefore the unraveling selvedge edge, of the fabric as much as possible. In addition, it is less wasteful of precious hand-woven fabric.

The smock is most often made today with a peasant blouse style cut, with a drawstring or elasticized neckline and full sleeves gathered at the wrists. The casing for the drawstring can be at the edge, or it can be set back an inch from the edge, resulting in a ruffled neckline. A front slit opening is acceptable, but should always be worn closed. The drawstring is not a period style. Its use is probably based on some early 16th century Italian chemises with necklines that have gathers secured by a ribbon sewn down on top of them.

While various colors are popular, it is most accurate to make it off-white. Trim, if any, should be limited to a small amount of embroidery. Avoid the Hollywood inspired fashion for wearing the shift off the shoulders. To the Elizabethans, this was not a sexy look--it was a sign that you were such a sloven you couldn't keep your shift up. It's on a level with having your fly open, or mascara smeared all over your face.

Another style of smock was the high necked one sometimes called a partlet. It is dubious whether peasant women made their smocks high necked or not. We only have one proven example of a ladies' high necked smock, and that one is a noblewoman's. It's more likely that the high neckline belongs to a partlet, which is a dickey-like fill in piece, either worn tucked into the bodice or pinned and tied on the outside.

Skirts should always be long, to the ankle bone or longer. They should be full around the waist and hips, never fitted. They should not have ruffles, or tiers. They should be at least 4 or 5 yards around the bottom (3 or 4 45" panels).

rectangular skirts are easiest to make. Cut 3 or four panels of 45" fabric , seam them together, gather or pleat them into a waistband, and hem. Don't worry about fastening the placket, it won't show in all those gathers. and your smock is under it anyway.

Gored skirts take a bit more work, but look and move more gracefully. Some people like them because there is less bulk around the hips, but don't eliminate it completely. Even a gored skirt should be gathered at least double at the top, never seamed into a flat waist .

An elastic or drawstring waistband can be used, but the resultant bulk can be very uncomfortable under a snug bodice.

Skirts were usually wool or linen in period, but cotton is often used today. It should be something with body, at least the thickness of sheeting rather than muslin or broadcloth.

Two skirts should be worn, in addition to the smock. The upper skirt is usually worn tucked or pinned up into a belt to keep it out of the dirt. Do not sew ties, drawstrings, ribbons, etc, into the skirts to achieve this look.

The vest-like garment worn by peasant women is called a bodice. The word comes from "pair of bodies".

The bodice is a support garment, taking the place of the modern corset, or, for that matter, the modern bra. It should fit snugly enough to support the breasts, but not so tightly as to be uncomfortable.

The bodice should be cut, like a vest, with built in armholes and shoulders, never as a camisole-type cut with straps. The strapless bodice/corset thingie and the laced up waist belt are modern inventions.

It can have a square or rounded neckline, which is always cut across the top of the nipple line, not higher. If you want more modesty, wear the smock higher or wear a partlet. The neckline should also never be cut below the nipple line. The result is not period, and it is both uncomfortable and an eyesore.

The waist of the bodice is at the natural waistline in back, and in front, it usually dips to a point about 3" below the waist.

Most bodices lace up, but they can also be fastened with buttons or hooks and eyes.

A bodice should not have darts or "princess" seams to fit it to the breasts, nor underbust gussets as in some ethnic European folk dress. The technique of fitting body curves with darts had not yet been invented. Rather than have clothing conform to body curves, it was constructed in such a way that the body conformed to the clothing.

It is very important that the bodice be sturdy and closely fitted enough to hold the figure in. Too many bodices are made out of one layer of light fabric, with lightweight lining. A proper bodice needs an inner layer or flatlining of canvas or other heavy fabric to look right. With the right fabric, a bodice does not need to be heavily boned.

It should not skim loosely over the body, but fit snugly. This doesn't mean that it has to be so tight as to be painful. Many bodice wearers like to tell war stories about the agony of bodices and corsets, but a well made one should be no more uncomfortable than a well fitted bra.

Lower middle class bodices often have skirtings and shoulder wings. Avoid labor intensive styles such as stuffed shoulder rolls and looped or tabbed wings and skirtings.

Shoes, hats, and other accessories will be discussed in the accessories section.