Middle Class and Noble Men's Garments
The clothing of the middle and noble classes is basically the same in construction, but there is considerable variety in the intentions and styles of the two groups.
The upper middle class was composed of merchants, businessmen, some skilled artisans, landowners, bureaucrats, and high ranking servants. their clothing was intended to show that they were financially secure, trustworthy. Many of them were Puritans, and tended to wear black or other somber colors, although they could be extremely rich in materials and ornamentation.
Noble’s clothing was intended to display their wealth, status, and sexual attractiveness. One of the definitions of a nobleman was that he did not need to work to support himself. He lived on the income from the land he owned and his other investments. While his clothing reflected that he did not work, it was not overly confining. A nobleman was expected to be able to fence at any time, and always wore a sword. The dances of the time were also quite vigorous, especially for men.
Shirts
The basic undergarment of the time was the shirt. It was similar in cut to the peasant shirt described before, but likely to be cut narrower through the body, for comfort under a closely fitted doublet. It was almost always white linen. Shirts usually had small box pleated ruffles at neck and wrist. These ruffles might be trimmed with narrow lace or blackwork embroidery, or with an edging of small blanket stitching, usually in black
Noblemen’s shirts could be literally covered in blackwork, drawn thread work, and other types of needlework, sometimes further embellished with gold thread or small beads, pearls, or gems. Since these shirts would have been difficult to launder, it is possible that a second, plainer shirt was worn underneath for protection.
Shirts of all classes were made by the wearer’s female relations. Shirt making was considered a primary duty of wives, even the highest ranked ladies.
Nether Hose
There were basically two types of nether hose, or pants, generally worn. One type was Venetian breeches, knee length pants gathered at the waist and tapered to the knee, where they buttoned or tied. These can be adapted from a modern pants pattern by slashing and spreading the patterns as shown in the diagram.
The other type of nether hose is variously known as slops or paned breeches. These are very fully puffed, usually mid thigh in length, although they can be as short as crotch length or as long as below the knee. They have an inner, fitted layer, then a layer of padding, then a gathered layer of fabric, and finally a series of panes, strips of fabric stiffened, lined, and usually decorated, forms the top layer. They sometimes have a padded and decorated codpiece, a separate flap like item that covers the fly front. This is an older style and is going out of fashion at this time. Some costumers have been known to sew toy squeakers inside them!
The panes should be heavily interfaced. Trim on slops should edge the panes, and may also trim the middle of each pane. They were often piped along the edges. Using a stiff cord inside the piping will help the panes keep their shape.
There is no good pattern for paned slops currently available, but the Winter/Savoy book has very good instructions for adapting a modern pattern. I sometimes making the innermost layer of a strong, stretchy fabric such as cotton spandex blend, as it takes a lot of stress.
Doublets
The doublet is the jacket-like garment. It can, but need not, be of the same fabric as the nether hose. It usually has a high neckline with a standing collar, and is closely fitted. It always fastens down the front: the laced back is a modern theatrical invention. It has shoulder wings or tabs and a skirting. It usually has eyelet holes at the waistline or in a strip mounted under the skirting, to which points, strips of ribbon or cord with metal tips, sewn to the nether hose can be tied, or trussed, to keep them up. A doublet often has a similar strip under the shoulder wings to attach sleeves.
Trim on doublets often follows a triangular pattern from the shoulders to the waist, which gives the illusion of broad shoulders and a narrow waistline. A seam along this line is permissible, and often necessary for shaping. this seam can be finished open and caught at intervals with jewels, buttons, or points, allowing the shirt to puff through. The backs of doublets are fitted with curved seams similar to modern princess seams, or with triangular seam lines like the front. They should be decorated like the fronts.
There is a style called the peascod (pea pod) belly doublet, which has padding at the front to simulate a pot belly, one of the stranger fashions ever. They are difficult to make and unattractive to the modern eye. The padded front of the peascod doublet is one factor that led to the costume myth of the back laced doublet, however, there is no reason to believe that back lacing was used. rather, a tailor would have used carefully layered and graded padding, thinning out to a manageable thickness at the buttonhole area.
It used to be thought that a doublet had sleeves, and a jerkin did not. However, there are period references to doublets without sleeves and sleeved jerkins, so it is now believed that a jerkin was a lighter, less tailored version. they were sometimes worn as a third layer over the shirt and doublet.
Sleeves were considered to be separate garments, and as such did not necessarily match the other garments. Several different pairs of sleeves can be made for one doublet, if desired. Sleeves could be many shapes, but the standard two piece "coat" sleeve seems to have been most common. For more detailed information on sleeves, which were, in general, unisex garments, please see the women’s section.
Cloaks were optional for middle class men, almost always worn by nobles. They were often very richly ornamented on both sides. Cloaks can have straight collars, sometimes of fur, or even be fur lined.
They can be cut as a half or three quarter circle. The three quarter circle uses more fabric but moves much better. They should be hip to waist length. The full length cloak is an earlier style, mostly reserved for ceremonial garments by this time, although there appears to have been a fashion for them at one point with which Her Majesty was displeased. .
Cloaks had long ties to hold them on. They were worn in various ways, most commonly up on one shoulder with the ties passing under the other arm and tying across the body in front.
Gowns
Gowns were worn mainly by older, respectable men, especially by scholars. The modern academic robe is a survival of the gown.
The gown was often worn over a doublet and netherhose for extra warmth, or possibly over undergarments for undress.
It was usually very full, often pleated into the shoulder seam or a yoke. It had long sleeves, often open along the front seam and worn hanging. They could be as short as thigh length or as long as the floor. The style was very similar to the woman's surcoat, in fact, it is unsure whether some surviving garments were made for men or women.
They were made of wool, silk, or velvet, and often lined with fur.
Nether stocks, or tights, were either made of knitted wool or silk, or of bias cut fabric. they were probably not as smoothly fitted as the portrait painters show.
They were shaped like a pair of tights cut in half at the crotch seam. They were held up with a drawstring around the waist, and tied to the doublet with points, along with the pants. Sometimes they were gartered at the knees with a long strip of ribbon, cloth, or knitting wrapped over the top of the knee, crossed behind, and tied in front below the knee. This keeps the nether stocks from bagging and calls attention to a handsome leg.
Many modern reenactors wear dancer’s tights, but they can be hot, as they are synthetic, and are often too thin to look right. Lady’s leggings or stirrup pants can look very good, but must be worn with boots. there are several suppliers making very heavy duty, well fitted tights, but they are expensive. Long stockings such as cross country ski socks or soccer socks can be worn with venetians. No bare leg should ever show.
